Solo Thanksgiving Adventure

It is mid September 1991 I have been a licensed driver for just a few months. I have just moved to Muskoka from Terrace Bay to go to school at Bracebridge and Muskoka Lakes Secondary School for a year. I am in Mrs. Mellow’s English class – first class of the morning. We are asked to stand and look out the window to sing Oh Canada. As we are singing I am lost in the outside world’s magnificent hills that are now the vibrant colours of red, orange and yellow a seemingly warm campfire in the sky… All I can think is as soon as I get out of here at break time – I am going for a drive. I had my uncle’s 1983 two tone brown Chevrolet Scottsdale. If you know Muskoka the colours of Hwy 141 where our cottage was are simply the most stunning and remains my favourite and first real memories of autumn drives. And so it was the beginning of me cutting class not because I am a bad kid but because I’m an outdoor animal and I was living in this natural setting where I could immerse myself in nature and do all day circle tours of the Windermere Road and up to Rosseau and Humphrey then back again then do it all again. The sounds of the early 90s country on the radio. I had stopped listening to modern music around this time because Classic Rock had lost its way to lousy pop and dance. The next best thing to my classic rock then was 90s country music – back then my faves were Tracy Lawrence, Travis Tritt and Brooks and Dunn. I can still hear them in those speakers, windows rolled down, the smell of fall in the air – smoke from people’s chimneys. Ohh that left a mark!

Fast forward now 33 years later, I’m still insatiable when it comes to back road drives. I have always been that way but now as an adult with my own car and job to pay for the gas I can go whenever I like for the most part. And if you know me – I am always going doesn’t matter the season. I have a 2021 Chevrolet Spark I bought in August 2020 we are nearing 180,000 kms of pleasure miles! Perhaps that puts it in to perspective. Ask my kids it’s not unlike me to drive 10 hours round trip just to go for lunch somewhere with a panoramic stunning view. I love my outdoors and my nature and a day driving never gets boring for me.

On Friday I had to go for a day trip up a secondary highway to a town that is 200 kms away for some work related meetings. On the way the fall colours were awe inspiring. I was thinking about Thanksgiving and how I would be alone anyways this year – so it was brewing in my mind to go for a drive. I wasn’t sure where but the night before I was reading a book for my Bible Study when I read this:

"In his book Sacred Pathways, Gary identifies nine of the ways people draw near to God: Naturalists are most inspired to love God out of doors, in natural settings.” From the book The Purpose Driven Life by Rick Warren

That was on my mind, that I draw closer to God in nature – I am an outdoor animal after all. So I started plotting routes on Google maps. I checked Ontario Parks and saw there was still some lakefront campsites available at Pancake Bay on Lake Superior. Well that was enough for me. I always have my camping gear on standby so without much thought I started loading my car Friday night readying for the morning. I had a rough outline trip planned and I would be on the road early.

I left Atikokan at 8 a.m. EST and started the drive up highway 11. The fog was just lifting off the highway. So I had to stop in at Niobe Lake for a quick moment to see that view. Unfortunately by the time I got there the fog was mostly lifted but the first fresh morning view was a wonderful trip starter.

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The next stop would be for a quick picture of a river just past the east Quetico boundary. I drive by it many mornings on my way to Thunder Bay for work but never get the chance to stop, but today I had the opportunity so I took it. The thing about nature is every day the same place can look so different. In the spring the waters are running. In the winter the trees are covered in snow, in the fall the trees are changing colours. Some days the water is cobalt blue, and some days like a grey day it’s a little more rustic and eery. Isn’t nature wonderful that way? It’s always changing. Like us, I suppose!

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I called my daughter to ask her to check the sunset time at Pancake Bay – I don’t want to miss that or pitch my tent in the dark. She looked it up and said I had until 7 p.m. being I had 850 kms to go, I knew I wasn’t going to be doing too much lollygagging today. Though the drive was leisurely and the colour show beautiful it was also purposeful – don’t miss that sunset!

On the way to Pancake Bay enjoying the colours I had other ideas like maybe I should go to Killarney, then maybe I should run over to Magnetawan and surprise my friend Kim. Maybe I should keep going and stop at that hotel in Thessalon where I stayed that blizzard night a while ago. But instead as I was getting to Pancake Bay I knew I better keep my drive the north so that I can enjoy one last night of camping this season.

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I got to Pancake Bay around 6 p.m. just in time register, buy some firewood, set up the tent really quickly and get me and Presley down to the beach for a bit before there was no sun left. Pancake Bay is beautiful – and I had a really nice spot but it’s getting really overly polished for me. I don’t like that. I like places that are orderly and well kept but when they become touched by people and boardwalks and all that – I lose interest. If you compare Pancake Bay to Neys the differences are Neys is closer to Marathon. Neys is a lot more wild still. It still has the balance of orderly and rustic. Also Neys is a lot further off the highway and on the north end of Lake Superior you can’t hear the highway traffic (just wolves and sometimes a train) – unlike Pancake Bay where you can hear the traffic on the highway through the night. Pancake Bay has a gorgeous beach but dogs aren’t allowed – and well Presley is my other half so there’s that. She has to be able to enjoy the beach too or it’s not good for me. Neys is colder and gets more fog and mist which is also beautiful. It’s really a preference. But Pancake Bay is more suitable for people looking for extra comfort not rustic. I enjoyed my night there and even had time for a fire, and some time to read and journal. I had a great sleep tucked in my little two person Woods tent in my -12 sleeping bag. Although warm that mummy bag style makes me a little nuts – I hate feeling trapped. I slept like a baby otherwise. I felt like it was a great way to end my camping season at Pancake Bay!

I was up very early – as I usually am at camp. By 8 am. Presley and I were back on the road. Would we head south and then cut over or go north. That’s when I decided I was going to do the Caramat Road for a Forest Road fix, and that would give me time to get up to Nakina to stay in a hotel and I would have time to pop quickly in to Dubreville. I have a shirt-tale connection to Dubreville, and though I have driven by the exit for it many times on the highway but I never took the time to run in and have a look. Dubreville is 30 kms off highway 17 (between Wawa and White River). The drive in is absolutely beautiful and typical of Algoma Country – hills and rocks and curves!

I could see why people would love it there. If you like rustic, tucked away in the woods and an obvious outdoor playground with a little closer proximity to southern Ontario – it’s a gem. It appeared the major employer was a mine.

I wouldn’t say no if offered a cabin in there. But then I wouldn’t say no to any cabin tucked away off the highway in the north! I wasn’t disappointed by Dubreville. Neither was Presley as she got a brief swim at the beach. It was quiet. Thanksgiving weekend Sunday and the few stores ie. Hardware store, grocery store and a liquor store – of course were all closed. Next stop would be White River to make sure we had a full tank of gas in case we got stuck up the Caramat highway (bush road). We got filled up – grabbed a BLT sandwich and coffee at Robin’s and I checked my phone. I saw everyone’s beautiful Thanksgiving turkeys in my newsfeed and felt a momentary sense of sadness as I was spending Thankgiving alone. In life every choice we make comes with the loss of something. I live alone. In today's economy where I am is really the best for me at least for now. I mean I could be somewhere else I suppose but then every penny would be to pay bills. How I live now, I live in a small town – I feel safe and I am surrounded by outdoors something that is soul food to me, and I have spending money to spoil my grandchildren and do things like go on impromptu road trips on long weekends. I still get to see my family sometimes though not as often as I like but I think the way my life is now this is the way it is meant to be for the time being. I am content and feel blessed even though on Thanksgiving weekend I miss my family as I used to be the one doing Turkey dinners for 15 to 18 people! So in our joy there is often a tinge of sorrow. I know many aren’t with their families and loved ones on Thanksgiving. We all have our challenges but have to see the blessings too. Gratitude is important so is acceptance.

It was time to leave White River and head on to Manitouwadge. I think this was the highlight of my trip. At the Manitouwadge turn off at Highway 17 I stopped to let Presley out and have a quick call with my mom to tell her where I was headed. She worries about me – I told her not to worry I had all my camping gear and there would be hunters up there if I ran in to trouble. After a quick call I made my way up the 50 kms of secondary highway in to Manitouwadge – again a beautiful drive. Manitouwadge is known for its recreational vehicle world. I think they have a 4x4 jamobrees or something. I didn’t go right into the town of Manitouwadge – I was too eager to get up that Caramat highway once I saw the sign for the turn!

I left Manitouwadge feeling like a wilderness queen starting up that forestry road. It's about 100 kms to Caramat. It's a beautiful road by the way – total bush road. I needed my fix because I obviously don't get enough. The road is not paved it’s just gravel typical of a haul road – it is winding and turning and you cross narrow bridges over rivers. There wasn’t a lot for wildlife (they are all hiding right now from the guys in orange) but chipmunks and eagles and the usual were scurring about. The colours popping. The Caramat trees (as I call the Tamarac’s) are starting to go gold.

About half way up the forestry road I come to this fork by my recollection from my backroad book a left here will be the quickest way. It’s called Tamarac Drive at this point. I could see off in the distance some bright orange vests and quads – hunters. I think nothing of it except I knew they would be out here.

I am joyfully driving along when I see the line of quads and a couple dirt bikes racing up behind me through my rearview mirror. I am thinking they'll just go by so I slow down and move over to the right to let them by. But instead they pull up beside me and motion to open the window. I open my window and the man asks "where you going?". I answered with a question - "ummmm where you going?" then chuckled like a smartie pants and added "I'm on my way to Caramat!"

He says did you read that sign back there. I replied confidently "nope I didn't - I am on a bush road - not really reading the signs!". He laughs well if you read it… It says to not use this road to go to Caramat.

He told me the road was washed out up there! Well if this pack of wild hunters hadn’t just saved me from a Dukes of Hazard jump...! He told me the road has been washed out for years. They had been coming up this way 40 years (from London/Lake Erie area). We had a good chat as the boys passed around a bottle of Fireball. (no I didn't partake). One of the guys had a partridge in hand. I jokingly told him to clean it and throw it in the back of my Spark. They asked if I had ever been to the Hunter's Ball in Caramat. I seriously said probably but I would’ve been 5! I used to live in Caramat. We had more conversation about life in the north/wilderness and my dad's railroading days - and how my parents met in Toronto then married and soon after were in Caramat...! We ended up in Caramat because my dad was railroading at the time (mid-late 70s) and the railroad was offering their men a house to live in if they would go work in Caramat. My dad with a wife and two daughters at the time thought it was a good idea to have a place to live other than Toronto.

The hunters then joked about stealing the spare tire off my Spark. They need one for their quad and my Spark tires are just about the perfect size! They figured nobody would know – a girl alone in the middle of the bush. They kindly asked if I would be going to the hunter’s ball next weekend and if I wanted to go back to their hunting base for some cheese and crackers. They seemed nice and all – and maybe I even missed out on the love of my life but I was in a hurry to get up to Nakina to get to a hotel. It was time for me to trek back to the fork and go the other way! The guy says you only got about another 30 minutes. Then one of the other guy adds the way she came flying up here in the Spark – maybe 20! Before I took off I asked to take the photo and thanked them for making my day with some great conversation and laughs!

As I am nearing Caramat if I don’t hit a bit of a washout – I mean it’s good enough and I hit it hard enough that all my lights lit up on my dashboard – even my airbag light! I was thinking I hope that doesn’t deploy!... But Sparkie took it like a champ. As you come out of the bush road in to Caramat the very first house is my baby brother’s Godparents house then the next house was ours. It appeared only two of the old CN section houses were still habited. The rest like ours were abandoned. Such a shame. I vaguely remember that being a busy little street with all the families. But that’s life in the bush. My mom doesn’t remember it too fondly – but I do. It’s a harsh reality up there. Winters are long and tough, the bugs are huge and plentiful, and there are no amenities – just basics. In Caramat during its boom time of 200 people, there was one store – a Texaco where you could get your basic necessities - booze and stuff to put in booze and a few groceries. It was a glorified general store of very basics at very high prices. If you want food in a more economical manner you had to go get it in the bush. For most the Caramat life would probably not be ideal. But Caramat is a part of me and I am proud to say I lived there (one of many places I’ve lived). Is it any wonder I feel at home in the heart of the wilderness. From Caramat I was eager to go see Nakina. I hadn’t been in Nakina since I was a kid and I wanted to see what it was like now. I think I had been there as a child because we were camping at Burrows Lake. I made a quick stop at the infamous Pamela Lake beach. A beautiful spring fed lake with a nice beach where we used to go on summer days when we were little. I would have about 100 kms to Nakina now.

My first stop was in Longlac to scope if anything was open for food and hotels. There wasn’t much going on. The pizzareia was closed and mostly everything else. I was fine with that. There’s a great little chicken place in Geraldton, I’ll grab that on my way up to Nakina! It was 30 kms from Longlac to Geraldton. Driving through Geraldton I note the hotels but they all look empty. The little chicken place was closed but I could see that Robin’s Donuts was open in a pinch. Checking the time it’s 5:30 pm. So I had time to run up to Nakina. Maybe I’ll get something to eat there and a room. You see, Nakina has a mill. So I assume now there must be at least a hotel, or a cabin or something that will be open. Ha ha ha!!! I am foolish.

From Geraldton to Nakina is 60 kms up a secondary highway. Secondary highways up here ain’t what you think. Just on the outskirts of Geraldton now on the Nakina highway I make a mental note of a place called White Wolf Lodge. It looks happening. The drive in to Nakina is also beautiful, but I am tired at this point. Tired and hungry, and the daylight is fading. I am thinking I don’t really want to sleep on the side of the road this time of year especially up there – too many hungry bears! But I am sure there will be something amazing in Nakina – an old resort or something. I was so happy to see the signs for Nakina when I did see them. But guess what… there was nothing there. The closest thing I saw to accommodations was an old CN Caboose that I maybe could’ve snuck in to. It was not at all what I remembered! No restaurant, no lodge that I could see (it’s getting darker – not dark but darker) and now I am flustered and my eyes are tired. And this is the point where I reconcile why I don’t have a partner. They would want to plan everything and ask too many questions and get flustered.... but I fly by the seat of my pants. I like surprises and bright ideas and I have no problem laughing at my whoopsies.

So I turn around to leave Nakina. As I am leaving Nakina I notice a police car following me. I am thinking please don’t pull me over and ask me where I am going and/or where I have been because you wouldn’t believe me and surely you will think I was crazy and lock me up! Thankfully he turned off another road, phew. So back towards Geraldton. At this point I am kind of getting excited about the White Wolf Lodge thing. I am romanticizing in my mind that I will probably end up around a campfire with all these hunters – maybe they will feed me some moose. Maybe I will meet the love of my life – some rustic but sophisticated gentleman from southern Ontario who has been waiting his whole life to find some crazy northern Ontario girl that he could go live in Atikokan with. That’s not what happened.

I get to the office, go in and ask if they have a room. She says sorry lady – we are completely booked. I was so bummed. My dream of a rustic gentleman from southern Ontario shattered and now I still have no food and no place to stay. So back to Geraldton. I stop at the first inn. There’s nobody there – just a number to call if you want a room. I tried the number but nobody even answered. I go to the next inn. Though there was some rooms apparently taken there was a sign at the office door that there was nothing available. A gentleman came out from one of the rooms in a fabulous newfie accent says “Hey Darlin, I don’t think there’s rooms here!” Sigh.. So I would try one more place before going back to Longlac. I finally got it. The place on the highway just outside Geraldton had a room for $200 and they had food! So that was it. Me and Presley got cozy in our room on the back of the hotel. (I knew there’d be bears by the way). Then I went and grabbed some food. At around 11 p.m. at night I got the sixth sense thing that I usually get when there is a bear around. I talk to Presley a lot. I don’t have a partner, she’s it. I look over at Presley and say I bet there’s a bear out there! So I peak out the window and sure enough I see the big round black bum (head obviously in the garbage). How cute. I must’ve startled him because he started making his way out of the parking lot at a very leisurely pace. I got one quick picture that turned out sorta. Then enjoyed a very good much needed rest at the hotel!

I was up early again, and showered and on the road with some hotel coffee. As we are passing Jellicoe I notice a bit of snow flakes. So the winter is coming. I loved the drive in through Beardmore the gateway to Lake Nipigon. It is truly a magnificent area – I need to get in there for a paddle very soon.

I stopped at Lake Helen first nation for gas then at Nipigon to enjoy a very healthy breakfast at Ducky’s Diner – love this place. I met a couple hunters, and another man who was on his way back to Vermont from Wisconsin. His was not a joyful Thanksgiving – he had just attended his mom’s funeral. I felt bad for him. On the way out I wished everyone a Happy Thanksgiving and let Mr. Vermont know that Pancake Bay was a very worthwhile stop if he had the time. Then it was on to home…

The Caramat trees on our little highway back in to Atikokan are golden, the rain is showing signs of turning to snow. The air is chilly. I am quite confident that in no time – I’ll be starting up old Boyfriend (Skidoo) and heading up the trails like I had planned last winter before I busted my knee (not falling for that again) pardon the pun. Also it didn’t snow enough.

I was so happy to get out for a fall drive and adventure. I wouldn’t have missed it for the world. There was not a moment on that road trip that God wasn’t looking out for me. He had me think about a lot of things and left me feeling completely trusting His will in my life and mostly full of gratitude for the life I have lived, the life I am living and the surprises yet to come!

HAPPY THANKGIVING…

“That they should seek the Lord, if haply they might feel after him, and find him, though he be not far from every one of us.” Acts 17:27

Niobe Lake, Atikokan